Roasts
The Turkey, Annually
Once a year, in an apartment not designed for it, for people who will comment on it either way.
Prep
40 min
Cook
1 hr 45 min
Serves
10
Level
Involved
Ingredients
6kg — turkey (spatchcocked, ask the butcher)
60g — flaky salt
2 tbsp — baking powder (for the skin, trust me)
120g — softened butter
1 small bunch — sage, chopped
1 small bunch — thyme, chopped
2 — lemons, zested
3 — onions, thickly sliced
I have hosted this in a kitchen with four square feet of counter more times than is reasonable. It is entirely doable. You will just have to put the salad bowl on the floor at some point.
Dry brine, spatchcock, high heat. Three decisions that turn a whole day of anxiety into something that comes out of the oven in under two hours.
Method
Two days ahead: mix the salt and baking powder and rub it over the whole spatchcocked bird, concentrating on the skin. Leave uncovered on a rack in the fridge.
On the day, bring the turkey out two hours early. Heat the oven to 220°C.
Mash the butter with the sage, thyme and lemon zest. Push it under the breast skin with your fingers, working it as far back as you can reach.
Lay the onion slices across a large tray and set the turkey flat on top, skin side up.
Roast at 220°C for 30 minutes, then drop to 180°C for a further 1 hour 15 minutes, until the thickest part of the thigh reads 74°C.
Rest for 30 minutes before carving. Use the time to make the gravy from the tray.
A note
The baking powder sounds wrong and it is the single biggest difference between crisp skin and pale, flabby skin. Do not leave it out.
Good to know
More About This Recipe
Nutrition
Calories
410 kcal
Protein
46g
Carbs
3g
Fat
24g
Tips & tricks
Spatchcocking is what makes the shorter cook time possible — ask the butcher to do it if you’re not confident with kitchen shears.
Push the herb butter as far under the skin as your fingers will reach, not just at the edges — this is where most of the flavor actually ends up.
The baking powder sounds wrong. It is not. It’s the single biggest difference between crisp skin and pale, flabby skin, and it’s worth trusting the process here.
Substitutions
Baking powder
There's no real substitute for the skin effect here — skip it and expect softer skin rather than crackling crisp.
Sage and thyme
Rosemary works in the same quantity if that's what's in the garden — the butter under the skin is the important part, not the exact herb.
Pairs well with
Something that clears the palate rather than competing with a whole table of sides.
Storage & leftovers
Keeps well, which is half the point of cooking a whole bird. Refrigerate in a sealed container for up to four days. Reheat gently in a low oven with a splash of stock to keep it from drying out — sliced turkey toughens fast in the microwave. It also freezes well, portioned, for up to two months.
Questions people ask
Do I have to spatchcock it?
Why baking powder on the skin?
How far ahead can I dry-brine it?
Postcards from my kitchen
Made this one?
Tell me how it went, or what you did differently. The best changes to these recipes have come from readers.